Standing outside Bilbao Airport waiting for the airport bus, it suddenly dawned on us that nobody else was making the decisions anymore.

There wasn’t a parent checking the timetable, choosing the right stop or making sure we’d packed everything. If we got on the wrong bus, we’d be the ones dealing with it. If we got lost, we’d have to work it out ourselves.

Looking back, that’s what I’ll remember most about Bilbao.

It wasn’t really my first trip to Spain.

It was my first experience of genuine independence.

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Travelling independently with my friend Finn turned out to be one of the highlights of my summer. We didn’t choose Bilbao because it had always been at the top of our bucket list. In fact, we’d hardly thought about it before we started planning.

Instead, we began with a simple question:

Where can two sixteen-year-olds realistically afford to travel during the summer holidays?

Using Skyscanner’s “Everywhere” search and flexible dates, Bilbao appeared as one of the cheapest direct flights from London Luton. The more we researched it, the more it seemed ideal for a first independent trip.

It was compact enough to explore on foot, had an excellent public transport system, was known for its food, and offered an easy day trip to San Sebastián without needing to hire a car.

In the end, I think we chose perfectly.

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Quick Facts

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Why Bilbao?

One thing this trip changed for me is how I think about choosing destinations.

Most people decide where they want to go and then look for flights.

We almost did the opposite.

We knew we had a free week in the holidays, so we searched for affordable destinations first and let the flights guide our decision.

Bilbao kept appearing as one of the best-value options.

That approach opened my eyes to places I probably wouldn’t have considered otherwise.

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Before We Went

Planning turned out to be almost as interesting as the trip itself.

The flights were easy.

Finding accommodation wasn’t.

Most booking websites assume that at least one traveller is an adult, so travelling independently at sixteen required a little more work.

After finding suitable accommodation on Booking.com, we contacted the residence directly to check that they accepted two sixteen-year-olds travelling without parents. Once they confirmed they did, we knew we could book with confidence.

That turned out to be one of the best decisions we made before leaving.

The accommodation itself exceeded expectations. We stayed at Residencia Universitaria Resa Blas de Otero, which was clean, comfortable and well located. Breakfast vouchers for a nearby café were included, making the overall value even better.

We also relied heavily on technology before and during the trip.

Google Maps became our navigation system.

Wise made spending money abroad simple.

AI helped us build an itinerary by combining ideas from several different sources rather than relying on just one suggestion.

Interestingly, one recommendation that repeatedly appeared was to visit Gaztelugatxe. It looks spectacular in photographs, but once we looked into it properly we realised it would involve several hours of travelling for a relatively short visit.

For a three-night trip, we decided our time was better spent exploring Bilbao itself and dedicating a full day to San Sebastián instead.

That turned out to be the right decision.

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Day One – Arrival

Our flight left London Luton in the evening and landed in Bilbao later that night. The flight itself was straightforward, but stepping out of the airport felt very different from arriving somewhere on a family holiday.

There wasn’t anyone waiting to tell us where to go next.

Our first challenge was simply finding the right airport bus. We spent about an hour working out which service we needed before eventually boarding the A3247 into the city.

It wasn’t a disaster—in hindsight it was all part of the experience—but it was our first reminder that independent travel is full of small decisions. Nobody else was going to solve those problems for us.

By the time we reached the city centre it was around 10:30pm. Most supermarkets had already closed, although the bars and restaurants were still buzzing with people enjoying a warm summer evening.

After checking into our accommodation we bought some water, unpacked our bags and headed to bed.

Our holiday had finally begun.

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Day Two – Discovering Bilbao

Breakfast came in the form of vouchers for a nearby café, which was included with our accommodation. It was a relaxed start before walking across the city towards the Guggenheim Museum.

I’d seen photographs of the Guggenheim before, but none of them really prepared me for seeing it in person.

The building seems to change every time you walk around it. From one angle it’s all flowing titanium curves reflecting the sunlight; from another it almost looks like a ship sitting beside the river.

Even if you never went inside, I’d still recommend visiting it.

One unexpected bonus was that, because we were under eighteen, admission was free. We spent around two and a half hours exploring the exhibitions.

My favourite was Yayoi Kusama’s Infinity Room.

It wasn’t the biggest exhibit, but it was probably the most memorable. Walking into a room filled with mirrors and lights felt completely different from looking at a painting on a wall. It was one of those moments where contemporary art suddenly made sense.

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After the museum we deliberately avoided spending much on lunch.

Instead of finding a café, we stopped at a supermarket and bought fresh bread, ham, cheese and crisps before making sandwiches in a nearby park.

The whole lunch cost around €2.50 each.

That wasn’t because we were trying to spend as little as possible.

It was because we’d already decided where we wanted to spend our money.

That evening we had booked a tasting menu at Almargen, a restaurant we’d found through the Michelin Guide. Saving money earlier in the day meant we could enjoy something genuinely memorable later without blowing our overall budget.

I think that’s one of the best decisions we made all weekend.

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During the afternoon we walked over to San Mamés Stadium, home of Athletic Club.

Even without doing the full stadium tour, it was well worth visiting. The architecture is impressive from the outside, and the viewing bar overlooking the pitch gives you a great sense of the stadium without needing to buy a match ticket.

For football fans it’s an easy recommendation, especially as it’s so accessible from the city centre.

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That evening was probably the highlight of our time in Bilbao itself.

Dinner at Almargen was unlike anything either of us had experienced before.

We chose the tasting menu, which consisted of a series of carefully prepared courses that showcased local ingredients in ways we hadn’t expected.

The dish everyone talks about is the broccoli, and surprisingly it lived up to the reputation. It wasn’t something I would ever have chosen from a menu normally, but it completely changed my expectations of what a simple ingredient could taste like.

My personal favourite, though, was the tuna.

It was incredibly fresh and one of the best pieces of fish I’ve ever eaten.

At around €50 each, it certainly wasn’t a cheap meal by our standards.

But because we’d consciously saved money elsewhere throughout the day, it never felt extravagant.

Instead, it felt like exactly the right place to spend our budget.

It’s easy to remember how much something cost.

Years later, I suspect I’ll remember the conversation, the atmosphere beside the river and sharing that experience with Finn far more than the number on the bill.

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By the end of our first full day we’d already settled into travelling together.

The things that had seemed daunting the previous evening—finding transport, navigating unfamiliar streets and working things out for ourselves—were already beginning to feel normal.

That was probably the biggest surprise of the trip.

Not how quickly we learnt our way around Bilbao.

But how quickly independent travel started to feel… independent.

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Day Three – San Sebastián

If you’re visiting Bilbao for three nights, I’d strongly recommend spending one of those days in San Sebastián.

It’s close enough to reach comfortably by coach, but it feels like a completely different place. Bilbao is modern, architectural and industrial in places. San Sebastián is elegant, relaxed and built around one of Europe’s most beautiful urban beaches.

It was exactly the contrast we were hoping for.

The coach journey took around an hour and twenty minutes, and before long we were standing beside La Concha Bay.

Our original plan was simple: climb to the viewpoint, explore the old town, try plenty of pintxos and then spend the evening soaking up the atmosphere before heading back to Bilbao.

Like most good plans, it changed slightly.

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Our first objective was the viewpoint overlooking the bay.

The walk up was steeper than we’d expected and, at one point, we accidentally followed signs to the wrong entrance for the amusement park. It meant climbing further than we needed to before realising our mistake and doubling back.

At the time it was mildly frustrating.

Half an hour later it had become one of those moments we were already laughing about.

That’s one thing I’ve realised about travelling.

The small things that don’t quite go to plan often become the stories you remember most.

When we finally reached the viewpoint, any annoyance disappeared immediately.

Looking out across La Concha Bay, the sea changed from deep blue to turquoise as it reached the beach, with the city wrapping itself neatly around the coastline.

It was one of those views that photographs struggle to do justice.

We stayed there for quite a while, not because there was lots to do, but because sometimes it’s worth simply stopping and taking somewhere in.

After making our way back down into the old town, it was time for the part of the day I’d been most looking forward to.

Pintxos.

Before this trip I’d heard people describe San Sebastián as one of Europe’s great food cities.

Now I understood why.

Rather than sitting down for one long lunch, we spent the afternoon moving between different bars, each with its own selection of freshly prepared pintxos displayed across the counter.

Some specialised in seafood.

Others focused on cured meats.

Some offered modern twists on traditional dishes.

The fun wasn’t just eating.

It was choosing whatever looked interesting.

You’d order one or two, have a drink, chat for a while and then move on to the next place.

It felt far more social than a traditional restaurant meal.

Instead of committing to one menu, we experienced several different kitchens in the space of an afternoon.

For around €10 each we ended up completely full.

It wasn’t just one of the best meals of the trip.

It was probably my favourite experience of the whole weekend.

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Later in the afternoon we walked up towards Monte Igueldo. We decided to walk the winding 45-minute climb up rather than paying for the funicular railway. It was definitely harder work, especially in the summer heat, but the views over San Sebastián became better with every turn and made the climb feel worthwhile.

Monte Igueldo isn’t just a viewpoint. At the top there’s a traditional amusement park that’s been entertaining visitors for generations. It’s nothing like Alton Towers or a modern theme park. Instead, it’s full of smaller rides that feel part of the place rather than separate from it.

We joined the queue for one ride that immediately caught our attention: a small boat ride built right along the edge of the cliffs. The ride itself only lasted a couple of minutes, but that wasn’t really the point. As the boats floated around the circuit, they opened up incredible views across La Concha Bay, the beach and the whole of San Sebastián below.

It turned out to be one of those unexpected moments that ended up sticking in my memory. We hadn’t walked all the way up Monte Igueldo for an amusement park, but somehow that little boat ride became one of the highlights of the afternoon.

It took a bit longer and involved a fair amount of climbing, but it felt like the right decision.

Partly because we were trying to keep costs sensible.

Partly because walking through a place helps you notice far more than travelling straight to the top.

Looking back, I think that became one of the themes of the trip.

Whenever we had a choice between spending money for convenience or taking a little more time, we generally chose the slower option.

It almost always paid off.

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As evening approached we made our way back to the coach station and headed to Bilbao.

There was something quite satisfying about returning to a city that, only twenty-four hours earlier, had still felt unfamiliar.

By now we knew where to buy food.

We knew the quickest routes back to our accommodation.

We’d learnt how the buses worked.

Without really noticing it happening, Bilbao had started to feel familiar.

And that’s probably the biggest compliment I can pay it.

It never felt intimidating.

It simply became our city for a few days.

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Day Four – One Last Morning in Bilbao

Our flight home wasn’t until later in the day, so after checking out we had one final chance to explore the city.

Rather than rushing to fit in another attraction, we decided simply to wander.

In hindsight, that was exactly the right decision.

Some of my favourite memories of Bilbao weren’t museums or famous landmarks. They were the moments in between—walking beside the river, crossing the bridges, watching people go about their day and discovering streets we hadn’t planned to visit.

We spent some time exploring Casco Viejo, Bilbao’s Old Town.

The main streets were understandably busy with tourists, but it didn’t take much to find quieter side streets full of independent cafés, small shops and local businesses. It felt less like ticking off another attraction and more like experiencing the city as it really is.

One place I’d definitely recommend is the covered market.

As well as fresh produce and local food, it turned out to be the perfect place to buy gifts to take home. Instead of buying the usual souvenirs, we chose vacuum-packed cured meats and other local produce. They travelled well and felt much more personal than another fridge magnet or keyring.

Lunch was much simpler than the evening before.

We found another pintxos bar, ordered a selection of dishes that caught our eye and finally tried Spanish tortilla.

Sometimes the simplest meals turn out to be the most memorable.

By then we’d almost fallen into the rhythm of travelling.

Without really thinking about it we were navigating the city, deciding where to eat, checking bus times and adjusting our plans as we went along.

It was strange to think that only three days earlier we’d stood outside the airport wondering whether we’d even find the right bus into the city.

Now, travelling independently already felt surprisingly normal.

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Food – The Biggest Surprise

If there was one thing Bilbao exceeded my expectations on, it was the food.

Before travelling I’d mainly associated the city with the Guggenheim Museum and modern architecture.

I hadn’t realised just how strong the food culture was across the Basque Country.

The trip taught me that eating well doesn’t necessarily mean spending lots of money.

Some of our favourite meals were supermarket lunches eaten in a park.

Others were simple pintxos enjoyed standing at a crowded bar.

Then there was Almargen, where we spent considerably more than we had at lunchtime but came away with one of the experiences we’ll remember for years.

What made the weekend work wasn’t spending money.

It was choosing where to spend it.

Was San Sebastián Worth It?

Absolutely.

Some people suggest spending the whole weekend in Bilbao, while others recommend moving accommodation and splitting the trip between the two cities.

Looking back, I think we accidentally found the sweet spot.

Bilbao comfortably filled two days.

San Sebastián made the perfect day trip.

The contrast between the two cities meant neither became repetitive.

Bilbao offered architecture, museums and a relaxed city atmosphere.

San Sebastián offered beaches, scenery and arguably some of the best casual food I’ve ever eaten.

If I returned, I’d follow exactly the same pattern again.

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Would I Change Anything?

Very little.

The one practical change I would make would be to book the flights a little earlier. We still found affordable fares, but booking a few weeks sooner would have given us a wider choice of destinations, dates and flight times, rather than limiting us to the options that were still cheap.

Beyond that, most of the decisions we made worked exactly as we had hoped. Keeping Bilbao as our base made the trip simple, while spending a full day in San Sebastián gave us enough variety without the disruption of changing accommodation.

We also got the balance of the itinerary about right. We saw the main attractions, but didn’t try to fill every hour. Some of the best parts of the trip came from wandering through the streets, walking beside the river or simply stopping to enjoy the view.

The same was true of the food. Saving money on simple breakfasts and lunches allowed us to enjoy one memorable tasting menu without making the whole trip expensive.

So, apart from booking slightly earlier, I would make broadly the same choices again. Sometimes a successful itinerary is as much about what you leave out as what you manage to include.

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What Changed My Thinking?

When I booked this trip, I thought travelling independently was mainly about organising flights, accommodation and transport.

By the time I came home, I’d realised independence is something quite different.

It’s about making dozens of small decisions every day.

Finding the right airport bus.

Changing plans when something doesn’t quite work.

Managing your money.

Choosing when to spend and when to save.

Working together to solve problems rather than expecting somebody else to do it.

Those decisions sound ordinary, but together they’re what made this trip feel different from any family holiday I’d been on before.

Bilbao didn’t just give me somewhere new to visit.

It gave me confidence that I could travel independently.

I think that’s what I’ll remember longest.

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Final Verdict

Bilbao turned out to be the perfect destination for my first independent trip abroad.

It felt safe without being boring, compact without feeling small, and interesting without becoming overwhelming. The Guggenheim lived up to its reputation, the food was even better than I’d hoped, and the day trip to San Sebastián gave the weekend a completely different flavour.

But if I’m honest, the city isn’t the thing I’ll remember most.

I’ll remember standing outside Bilbao Airport with Finn, looking at each other and realising that, for the first time, every decision from that moment onwards belonged to us.

Three days later, that feeling had changed completely.

Travelling independently no longer felt intimidating.

It simply felt normal.

And I think that’s why I’ll always look back on Bilbao as far more than just another city break. It was the trip that taught me I could do it.

Overall Rating: 8.5/10

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